Skincare and Makeup Tips for Oily Skin | Lab Muffin Beauty Science

Hi it’s Michelle from Lab Muffin Beauty Science and my skin is annoyingly oily if you have oily skin then you’ll know
what a pain it is to deal with – makeup slides off your face,
sunscreen slides around, everything slides around and you spend a lot of
your time trying not to look like a mirrorball. I’ve had so many people asking
me for my tips on how to deal with oily skin so here it is! Oily skin is genetic
but sometimes if you’re using the wrong skin care products you can actually make
oily or even dry skin overproduce oil and this gives you basically oilier skin
than you should have. Unfortunately some of us like me are in the truly oily camp
or technically oily combo camp because I’ve got oily t-zone and normal-ish
cheeks. Oily skin can also be dehydrated which leads to this weird dry but oily
situation where your skin feels like a tight piece of leather and it’s a bit
dry and maybe cracked but it’s also covered in a thin or thick layer of oil.
So a lot of people who think they have dry skin – but there’s still a whole bunch
of oil – you actually might have dehydrated skin. The first thing to do if
you’re frustrated with having oily skin is to make sure you’re not having that
situation. If you want a really detailed guide on how to do a skin evaluation
and a rundown of all the different skin types and conditions I’ve made one in my
guide to basic skin care. So let’s say your skin is actually oily – what can you
do? It’s really tempting to wash your skin with harsh cleansers to cut through
the oil and dry it out but don’t do this it is a trap harsh cleansers will strip away both oil
and what’s called your natural moisturizing factor or NMF which is a
collection of chemicals that are in your skin and these hold onto water and keep
it hydrated so it’s like a natural humectant moisturizer. Harsh surfactants
also warp the shape of some of the proteins in your skin and this leads to
dehydration because it makes your skin get leaky to water. Now, your skin is
responsive to its own hydration level – when your skin’s dehydrated it’s
going to produce more oil to try to keep your skin conditioned which means more oil.
Gentle cleansing is the way to go here. Your skin isn’t meant to feel tight and
dry after you wash it. It should feel soft and plump, almost like it’s been
very lightly moisturized. If you’re used to really really dry clean skin after
washing then having properly washed skin is going to feel a bit weird and it
might even feel like you haven’t washed properly for a bit – but if you persevere
you’ll eventually get used to it and your skin will be so much better for it.
Gentle cleansing was the number one thing that helped my oily skin. There are
a lot of things that can go into finding a gentle cleanser but the easiest thing
to do is to avoid sodium lauryl sulfate in the top ingredients of your cleanser
and to also avoid soaps. The reason is the molecules of these ingredients are
really skinny so they insert themselves into your skin
quite easily sort of like a pin sliding into your skin, and that means that they
stay in your skin and keep irritating it even after you’ve washed it off. These
ingredients are also more stripping which means they’re more likely to take
away the oils and the NMF in your skin. Even gentle cleansers can cause some of
these effects which is why I recommend that you try to clean your skin as
little as possible. So for me I only cleanse my skin properly at night once a
day with cleanser. In the morning I just use water – I splash my face with the
water and rub it around a bit and then pat it dry with a towel. Using less
cleanser has helped my oily skin a lot. I found that the oil tends to come back a
bit slower throughout the day instead of sort of like just flooding my entire
face and it feels a lot more comfortable so there isn’t that weird tight feeling
and that whole greasy dehydrated flaky shiny gross leathery situation has cut
back a lot. I’ve listed a couple of gentle cleansers that I really like in
the caption but remember that everyone’s skin is different so it’s really
important for you to work out what your skin likes and how your skin responds to
different situations. It’s really tempting to think that if
your skin is oily then it doesn’t need any more moisturizer because it’s giving
itself way too much already but again this is another trap. Your natural sebum
isn’t actually that good at moisturizing. If your skin is hydrated and oily then
maybe you don’t need another moisturizer but if your skin’s dehydrated and oily
which is the case for a lot of people then having a hydrating moisturizer that
addresses your dehydration issues with lots of occlusives and humectants – this
will help you control your oiliness. Salicylic acid which is commonly known
as beta hydroxy acid is a chemical exfoliant and an anti inflammatory acne
treating skincare ingredient. It’s recommended for oily skin a lot because
it’s oil soluble which means it’s more likely to be able to get through into
your blackheads and into your acne and clear them out. As far as I know there
haven’t been actual studies on whether or not this is true but it sounds pretty
reasonable. Oily skin tends to have bigger pores and I’ve personally found
that my pores look a lot less noticeable if I’ve been consistently using
salicylic acid for a while. The product I use most of the time is Paula’s Choice
2% BHA Liquid but there are a lot of options out there. And if you want
to find out more about exfoliation I’ve made a free guide that you can download
in the link below. Unfortunately there aren’t that many skincare ingredients
that have been found to reduce the amount of oil on your face and, for the
ones that there are, there’s usually like one single study on each of them so
it’s probably not very reliable and they might not actually work. There’s one
study where they used a 2 percent niacinamide serum and this reduced the
amount of oil that was on people’s faces. There’s another study that found that a
plant extract of saw palmetto in a cream also reduced oiliness.
There’s also vitamin A derivatives like retinol and tretinoin and these can
theoretically reshape the ducts that your oil comes out of and this slows
down how much it pulls out of your skin. You can also use a clay mask
to soak up any oil that’s sitting in your pores on your skin but you do
have to use these quite regularly so that you keep the oil at bay. I find that
using it twice or three times a week is necessary. I use a lot of translucent
powder for soaking up the oil on my skin I use it pretty much every day if I
don’t use it then there’s no hope for me the ingredient that I found the best for
this is starch so things like corn starch rice starch arrowroot powder there’s
tons and tons of starches I always look for starch high up somewhere in the
ingredients list. Some translucent powders also have clay which is also
pretty good at soaking up oil. One trick that you can use for soaking up oil is
Wayne Goss’s method which is where you put a really light layer of powder under
your foundation so that you can soak up the oil before it hits the surface so
before anyone can see it and so that means that your foundation isn’t going
to slide around as much because you’ve just got this extra oil soaking powder
in there Multi sunscreening is my word for using different sunscreens on
different parts of my face so for me I’ve got lots of hyperpigmentation here
on the tops of my cheeks and they get much much worse with like a tiny tiny
bit of Sun so I want a really protective sunscreen on this area but the problem
is sunscreens with really high protection tend to also be really greasy
and thick and uncomfortable so I don’t want to use the high protection
sunscreen everywhere because these bits are gonna get super super greasy so what
I do is I put the normal sunscreen everywhere and then I go back and I put
the high protection sunscreen on the bits that need it. If you decide to do
this you need to make sure that you pat your second sunscreen on really gently
to try to avoid shifting the lower layer around too much. You also need to make
sure that the sunscreen ingredients are actually compatible and they won’t
interact with each other and just cancel each other out. So for example I usually
use two Ultraceuticals sunscreens that have the same active ingredients. Blotting papers are really really good
for getting rid of oil in the middle of the day without messing up your makeup
too much just grab one of these and you pat it on gently on the oily bits to
soak it up. My favourites are the thin paper ones. I don’t really like using the
plastic ones because it just feels like I’m beating up Mother Nature when I use
them. You can also use toilet paper and napkins as well. It’s been so ingrained
in my head over the years that matte is the way to go with makeup for oily skin
but recently-ish I found that using dewy makeup actually works better for me. The
reason is when I do get oily then the contrast between the oily bits and the
non oily parts is a bit less obvious than if I have the matte foundation and
if I have the matte foundation and I have the oil then it looks really really
patchy. So I either look either kind of glowy / slightly sweaty or just gross
and decomposing. I usually mix an illuminating sort of fluid into my
foundation and then I add highlighter on the tops of my cheeks and on the end of
my nose and a little bit on my nose as well. Then I put the starch powder on top
and that seems to work pretty well. There are a lot of anti-oil makeup products
and pore filling primers that have lots of silicones in them but I’ve actually
personally found that too many silicones make me look even worse. They look really
nice for about half an hour or so and then the oil soaks into them and then
suddenly it all starts moving around on my face and I look like I’m made of
melting wax There are also some medical treatments
that can reduce oil production. Too many androgens which are male sex hormones
can make you produce way too much oil and there are some medications that can
reduce this so for example combined oral contraceptive pills and spironolactone.
Isotretinoin which is also known as accutane can also cut down on the oil.
Most of the time these prescription medications aren’t really used just for
treating oily skin but they are used for acne, and reducing oil is one of the side
effects. If you’re interested in these go to your doctor and chat to them about
whether or not it’s right for your particular situation.
There are also some newer treatments and ingredients that are promising for
treating oily skin so for example Botox and laser and light treatments but
they’re still pretty expensive at the moment and the evidence behind them so
far isn’t all that convincing. So those are some of my tips for coping with oily
skin! Do you already use these? Do you have a tip I didn’t cover? Let me know
in the comments! If you liked my video you can also subscribe to my channel. If
you want more regular beauty tips you can follow me on Facebook and Instagram
I also have a blog where I have tons and tons of articles on beauty products and
the science behind them. See you next time for more beauty science 🙂

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