FRIDAY Q&A | Microneedling | Cartridge types explanined | Speed settings to use | PIH/PIE

FRIDAY Q&A | Microneedling | Cartridge types explanined | Speed settings to use | PIH/PIE

Hey everyone, welcome back to my channel if this is your first time here, my name is penny I’m a master esthetician in Portland, Oregon and am excited that you’re here. Today. We are going to do the Q&A This is the video that I’m doing every single week where I take your questions and your comments and I answer as many of them as I can in one video So today I have a bunch of micro-needling questions because I just put out a micro-needling pen breakdown Video, so first things first, I really really want to recommend to you guys the book thermal needling by dr Lance Satterfield it is an invaluable resource if you are an Aesthetician or if you are a practitioner or if you’re somebody who is serious about micro needling and you’ve got all these questions I really cannot recommend enough this book. It is an invaluable reference I can easily say this is the number one book for me as a master aesthetician for referencing a Variety of treatments not just micro needling. I will be referencing this book today for a few of these questions first question that I’m going to address is one that have gotten from so many of you and that is how do You choose and what is the difference between the number of needles in? cartridges for micro needling so you get these kits and they come with a 12 they come with a nano and they come with a 36 what’s the difference? Why would you choose one over the other? Okay so clearly we’re gonna choose nano cartridges when we want to do a very very Superficial it’s not even needling a superficial treatment to our outermost layer of skin our stratum corneum That’s the Nano cartridge. I think most of us kind of get that Setting that aside When you get to the actual needle cartridges you have a 12 and you have a 36 How do you choose and what’s the difference? so I’m going to read to you quickly because it has something to do with an effect that is called the fakir effect, and it has to do with Comparing the needle cartridges to a bed of nails for example so that you get the idea about the force it takes to puncture the skin depending on the number of Needles and I’m going to read to you here It is the phenomenon where why someone can lay down on a bed of nails without Sustaining injury is referred to as the fakir effect When there are sufficient nails to distribute the person’s weight over multiple points The force is induced by gravity are spread out over a large area and become insufficient to allow puncturing of the skin The greater the number of nails the greater the weight distribution and support per square centimeter The less force is applied at each point of support So basically you’ve spread out your weight over a bunch of nails so in order for that bed of nails to Puncture your skin you’d have to have a bunch of force on top of that weight I hope that that makes sense really think about that So you take a bed of nails and you take away half the nails and then you lay down on that bed of nails well It would take less force because there’s less distribution over those nails For the nails to puncture at the skin the same applies to a needle cartridge So when you have a 36 pin cartridge versus a 12 pin cartridge it’s going to take a more powerful motor to use a 36 pin cartridge and Effectively puncture the skin that said there are more needles in that cartridge So you are definitely putting down more holes at a time So my go-to is always a 12 pin and that is for two reasons number one The faqir effect is is in play. You know that you are able to have a little bit less Motor power and you’re still going to effectively puncture the skin. You don’t have to worry as much about force Because there is less needles to distribute against the skin and also you have more control There are less needles which means they’re putting down less holes as you move along and so for me at home Certainly the control of how many needles how many holes I’m putting down is invaluable So across the board, I like the 12 now I will say that the 36 are definitely just fine You just need to know that that the cure effect is in play it Definitely isn’t going to be as effective if you have a weak pen now on the other side, there are Needle options where there’s literally one single needle. I don’t recommend that to anyone I think that that should be only in a professional setting and I think that it should be with a doctor somebody that is absolutely very very very skilled and proficient in needling and That can be used for scar revision and think about it one single needle with a with a pen and force Yeah, that can really just penetrate into the skin You add more needles to the cartridge the more and more and more needles that you add the more force. It’s going to take to penetrate the skin and The more holes it’s putting down That’s why I always prefer a 12. I used to prefer a 9 before the 12 The 12 seems to be a really great sweet spot this current micro needling pen the m8 has 16 I still really like that very much. I think once you get up to 36 42 you just have to make sure that your pen has a powerful enough motor and You have to be sure that you are Comfortable with your experience that you’re putting down that many holes at a time because obviously you have a lot more needles going in Every single time you’re gonna put more holes in your skin. I hope that that makes sense. I hope that that is helpful and For reference if you do have the dermal needling book that is on page 56 and 57. He literally says as Previously mentioned the greater the needle count the less the penetration due to the faqir effect so it’s right here in this dermal needling book and That’s the reference. I did get a question from Jilly Liang and she basically says that She points out that I mentioned not pouring acid down microchannel holes after You’ve needled I say don’t use glycolic acid don’t use, you know Mandelic or lactic and then she says but wait isn’t higher Ilana acid an acid and of course I recommend using high molecular weight Hyaluronic acid when you do microneedle, the difference is higher ilanic acid is a humectant The other acids are exfoliant So it’s very very different high ilanic acid is not going to exfoliate your skin It’s going to hydrate the skin and it’s good for slip So even though they both contain the word acid, they are two very different topicals So high erotic acid is okay because it is not an exfoliant So, I hope that that helps I want to reiterate that. I do recommend high molecular weight high erotic acid The reason for that is that it is anti-inflammatory And we’re trying to mitigate that inflammatory response that we kick off when we do microneedle It’s integral to the process that we have an inflammatory response. We don’t want to exacerbate it from our topicals So we use high molecular weight higher Mladic acid to keep that inflammatory response under control. Okay, the next question comes from Reina civet Tata, oh shoot. I’m sure I butchered that. I’m so sorry Rayna, okay The question is she says I own the a6 and love it. That is awesome. I have a question How do I determine what speed I should use the pin app as always? I love every one of your videos. Thank you That is really sweet of you to say okay as far as the speed settings on a micro needling pen I almost always use the top two speeds that said Speed is about control so you can lower the speed in areas that you want more control and you You just have to think about it the higher the speed the more holes that you’re putting down, you know The pen is moving more quickly. The needles are penetrating in and out at a faster rate You’re going to put down more holes. So the higher the speeds. There’s two things number one I feel like it gives me less potential for any kind of drag and I don’t usually experience any kind of drag but when the speed setting is higher I feel like those needles are going in and out at a more proficient speed So I’m not worried as much about as I’m moving that they are not getting in and out of the skin fast enough that said when you are new I think that using a lower speed is perfectly fine and moving. Your pen slower is also perfectly fine it’s all about control and It’s also all about the area where your needling when I needle around my eyes I usually turn my pen down just a little bit. I don’t want to overdo it. So I move slower I turned down my speed and I always make sure that I have a needle cartridge that doesn’t have a ton of Pins on it so that I can just control what I’m doing and not over needle an area, okay this question comes from Steven Simpson and This says I fell a few months ago and got severe abrasions on my right cheek and forehead It is all healed, but I’m left with red hyperpigmentation. I have been using derma stamp to try and help heal it is this safe And then they say that they’re scared that they’re going to be left with this redness for the rest of their life so first of all something for you to look into That’s redness is actually called post inflammatory erythema, now what that is is there is a pink or a redness that is left behind in the wake of Some influent inflammation so you can get something called post inflammatory hyperpigmentation That’s typically brown that is left behind after an inflammatory response A lot of people will see that when they have an acne mark that goes away It’s left a brown spot, especially if you are of a darker skin tone. You’ve probably experienced some PIH well P ie is post inflammatory erythema And that is that pink that is left behind after an inflammatory response from a trauma or an injury Now what I would really recommend to you, is that you go see someone you should have someone look at you I probably would not be doing any micro needling or any stamping to the area only because You may not want to add to that inflammatory response kind of causing a perpetuation of that erythema because that erythema is from inflammation so what I would say to you is that if this is enough of a concern To you that you’re scared that you may see this long-term this is that point when you need to go see someone have them look at it and determine a Treatment plan going forward the good news. Is that erythema means that there is blood coming to the area Which is a really really good thing It’s part of the healing process and it means that stuff is still getting healed by your body So that’s good before that goes away you might want to go see somebody get a plan in action so that you’re not left with a Hypopigmentation which means lack of pigment at all and a whitening because that’s actually a lot harder to address Down the line. So while you still have that pink, which is actually a good thing. It’s indicative of a healing response go see somebody go see somebody and have them look at you and Develop a treatment plan together, and I’m so sorry that you fell I really am that’s just terrible I have some old injuries from falling down and I also have some from burning myself with a curling iron and It’s just no fun. So I’m sorry that that happened to you But definitely go see somebody so one other thing that I do Want to just put out there so that people can kind of get an understanding is about Rpms and power with micro needling devices again. I’m gonna reference this book. Do you guys see why this book is so amazing. So Listen to this about the motor on a micro doodling pen because you will hear me talk about when I break down pins I’ll talk about their rpms. They run from 8,000 to 14,000 or it’s an 18,000 rpm. And so we get questions about Okay. Well, why does that even matter do you get a better pen if it has a better or higher rpm? You know, that kind of thing here is your answer high torque is critical for adequate and accurate needle penetration motor speeds ought to be 100 to 150 Hertz per second most on the market are plus or minus 9,000 rpms that equals 150 Hertz so he says the Hertz need to be between 100 and 150 Hertz and 9,000 rpm equal 150 Hertz, so these pens that are 8,000 rpm those those fall in that range of 100 to 150 rpms. So if you’ve got a pen that is 14,000 RPM if you’ve got a pen that is 16,000 18,000 you are clearly Above the required hertz that dr. Lance said our field is saying is necessary for a good treatment okay, you guys this has been a lot of information and as you can see like I said in the beginning of this video this book is it if you are even thinking about doing micro needling or if you are someone who is Often on YouTube looking for information about micro needling. I just I’m gonna lead and I’m gonna end with this this book is Your best friend everything is in here everything that you could think of I have read this book Cover to cover and I still refer to it all the time all the time even when it has nothing to do with micro needling I will refer to this book just to see What dr. Lance center-field has to say about a certain skin issue process etc? Because the information is invaluable. So especially if you’re an aesthetician, I can’t recommend this enough I hope that you guys are having a fantastic week. Thank you for joining me in this Friday, QA I hope you learned something. Please leave any other questions and comments in the comment section. I will address them next week I hope you guys have a wonderful weekend and I’ll talk to you in my next care video that is going to be About the Victoria Beckham the new priming moisturiser We’re gonna do a little breakdown of that new moisturizer compared to the August eanes butter the cream and the rich cream Did a little showdown I’ve tested them both and we’re gonna break them down. See how they compare see which one is better See if they’re worth your money all that stuff that’s coming on Sunday. Talk to you guys then. Have a wonderful weekend. Take care


  • Jennifer Joyce Beauty says:

    Hello Penny!!๐ŸŒธ๐Ÿ™Œ๐Ÿป๐Ÿ’‹โค๏ธ

  • Maryann Rodriguez says:

    Hi Penn ๐Ÿ™‹๐Ÿฝโ€โ™€๏ธ
    What about for a 63 year young?๐Ÿคญ
    Happy Holiday's !๐ŸŽ„๐Ÿ’œ๐Ÿ’™โค๐ŸŒน

  • Seรฑora Catalin says:

    Great video as usual THANK YOU <3 … I bought the Setterfield book on your recommendation and 100% agree that it's invaluable! I love it and use it all the time. Could you please recommend a similar resource (books, websites) that go into detail regarding other anti-aging treatments such as high frequency and microcurrent? I've got at-home devices but the available information via YouTube or product manuals are often incomplete in regards to in-depth understanding of how these technologies intersect with each other and topical products, and I'm finding that I'm learning the hard way how to time, sequence and blend these modalities for optimal results. As always – luv ya! Xo

  • Margaret Adamson says:

    Thanks so much. I have the new dr pen 7 and haven't used it yet, because I feel there is quite a bit of knowledge needed prior to starting this type treatment at home. The book reference is great and I will definitely be purchasing. I'm actually nervous about needling until I fully understand the process.
    Love your videos. I am learning the correct way to DIY some treatments at home. This is an invasive procedure and want the best outcome.

  • Rebecca Spratling says:

    We stan an educational queen! ๐Ÿ˜ I just ordered that book. I haven't micro needled yet. I have only uses a derma roller for surgery scars and so far it's working amazing. The whole microneedling subject fascinates me.

  • Mira Parker says:

    You look extra stunning today! Your skin looks flawless

  • Lisa Bagierek says:

    Hi ! I love your videos and find them so informative. I was wondering when I use my dr pen should I be moving it in a circular motion or vertically/horizontally. Thanks

  • Inna Brooks says:

    I am exited to micro needle but also terrified.
    Quick question if I am on hydroquodone cream can I micro-needle?

  • Jan McMahon says:

    As always you are such a wealth of information. I am thinking of purchasing either a LED mask or a micro needling pen. I am 60 years old and usually go to my aesthetician/doctor twice a year for BBL,skin tight and a hydra facial. I am pretty vigilant with products. I always recommend your YouTube channel to all of my friends who are interested in learning more about procedures and products. You are by far the best

  • Nancy Preston says:

    thank you Penny, really helpful!!

  • Leeda Azadzoi says:

    Hi penny, can I use low molecular weight hyloarinic acid whilst skin needling?

  • Reyna Civitate says:

    I absolutely love your lip color can you share what ur using. โค๏ธ

  • B.J. Hall says:

    Great information, little Guru. I'm looking forward to getting Dr. Setterfields book. Thank you for your dedication to your trade, as we all benefit from it. QUESTION: Does it sound feasible a person can see jowls more prominent from microneedling? Thanks so much.๐Ÿ’•

  • Reyna Civitate says:

    Thank you so much for another informative video ๐Ÿ˜˜

  • Lauren Nasca says:

    Love love love these videos!

  • Lauren Nasca says:

    Would you recommend charging the same price for Nano needling as you would Microneedling? Recently certified. Was going through inventory where I work and had no idea what the Nano cartridges were and thatโ€™s how I found your channel!

  • Maria Maiorino says:

    Amazing !!! Thank you Thank you for sharing this info! I had so many questions about microneedling..

  • Vee Hart says:

    U look radiant! Ur skin is beautiful, keep doing what ur doing Penn ur beautiful always have been!! Love u girl!โค๏ธ Iโ€™m soooo interested to know what u do to stay so beautiful, I mean we know, but everything to the T. Hope Iโ€™m making sense lol. Love u Penn๐Ÿฅฐ๐Ÿ˜˜

  • Deanna Hall says:

    Hi Penny! I know I have asked this question on another video and I'm sorry if you have answered it and I missed it. Please do a video on poikiloderma of civatte!

  • Vee Hart says:

    Boy ur videos are a gem!!! I love them so much! Nobody like u Penn! Their so good! I love them sooo much! Thank you!๐Ÿ’•๐Ÿ’•

  • Iris Kaufman says:

    Hi Penny, Iโ€™m 64, and in full aging fight mode. Iโ€™ve been learning so much watching your videos. Thank you ! I started using the Dr. Pen 2 months ago and have incorporated many of the serums that you suggest. Also using LED, and Microcurrent. Also using neogenesis recovery after needling, and PLLA serum. My Skin has dramatically improved, however my routine is getting very expensive. My skin is pretty good for my age, however I have volume loss and sagging around jaw line. Wondering how to narrow down my regimen. Also wanted your opinion about the Skinn Cosmetics Line and Consult Beaute line. I previously had been using those products and have quite a large stash. particularly the Collagenesis Deep wrinkle protocol serum and cream, and the Pep 40 serum and cream. In the Consult Beaute line Iโ€™ve been using the Champagne serum, cream and also Volumagen.. What do you think about these products? Also wanted to know what you think about radio frequency. Many years ago I had Thermage and Iโ€™m sure that I lost a lot of fat in my face from this radiofrequency treatment.

  • peenza says:

    Getting ready to order pen. I was going to get the M8 with the 16 pen but it sounds like you prefer the 12. Is that correct?

  • Jennifer Jones says:

    You are just the best. I just love how you nerd out on all this. ๐Ÿ’— The question I keep having is whatโ€™s the purpose of nanoneedling? Why not just cosmetic needle since it also is about product penetration? I find myself wondering if you had a client come in, in what case would you decline cosmetic needling them in favor of nano?

  • chrislida C says:

    I love your eye makeup! Thanks for the video! Why does Dr. Pen X5 have silicon nano needle? Is silicon needle as good as other stainless steel? Thank you!โค๏ธ

  • AMS says:

    Super! Thank you for this video and your previous one comparing the different Micro-needling pens – just the information I was looking for ๐Ÿ˜Š

  • KathysBeautyCareChats says:

    So informative sweet penny! So much to remember and know!๐Ÿ˜ณlove you love chop!!๐Ÿ˜˜๐Ÿ˜˜๐Ÿ˜˜

  • Lynn Kristy says:


  • Lynn Kristy says:

    Such a rich presentation. ๐Ÿ’—

  • Emily Valenti says:

    Hi again penny !!!! I kno this is more of a question for a dermatologist, my friend Shannon got into a car accident a few years ago and had to have the area near her temples stitched up. The stitches left behind a blue color in her scars…. she has been to a dermatologist and was perscribed a topical cream that helped with her raised scars but she still was left with shallow scars and the blue color only got worse…. she is like a medical mystery๐Ÿ˜›. Sheโ€™s also not sure of the topical she was prescribed, but it is the only thing he will offer her… Have you or your colleagues ever heard of this happening at all? If so what type of treatment did they receive?

  • B. Qasem says:

    Thank you for the video .
    And i swear u look younger and cuter every time i see u
    I hope i will become younger and younger like you sweety
    Could you tell what can i do / use to deminish and later get rid of my begining marionet lines and sagging jaw area

  • Nicole Trost says:

    Hi Penny, today I have attempted to medical needle. I was following along with you as you demonstrated the how too, as I didnโ€™t wonโ€™t to make any mistakes with needle depth etc. I couldnโ€™t get my hands on the same numbing agent you used,but did use a product called numbit. I found however that I bleed quite a lot around my mouth and it hurt on my forehead. I reduced the needle depth to .25 and used this over my entire face. I really want to address getting the benefits from medical needling as Iโ€™m at an age where collagen is decreasing.(45 years old). Iโ€™m wandering if Iโ€™m doing something wrong. Can you please advise me on what I should do? Do I just need to use a better numbing cream? Is bleeding ok etc. Thank you for all of your wonderful videos. I appreciate your time and effort that keeps us all informed on the correct management for skincare.

  • Michelle Dupont Astrupgaard says:

    Hi Penny, just ordered the M8 pen but Cos de Baha does not ship to my country and I am having trouble locating a high molecular HA. Can I use the one from The Ordinary even though it is a mix of low medium and high molecular HA to needle with? Thank you again for a great channel!

  • Emma Derbez says:

    Hi Penny, another great video, thanks for all you do for us. Penny I wanted to ask if you have any Botox on your forehead, I donโ€™t see any wrinkles on your look flawless & beautiful! Can you still microneedle if you do Botox? Thanks again Penny, I appreciate your time & knowledge! Blessings ๐Ÿ™

  • Sharon Brady says:

    Hi as always thank you for such a useful wealth of information. Please could you tell me if Microneedling works for cellulite. I have been in a constant fight with my cellulite for 25 years. It started after the birth of my child at the age of 21 and has got progressively worse. I weigh just over 8 stone so itโ€™s not a weight issue. I would really appreciate your advice. Thank you.

  • Lindsey B says:

    Iโ€™ve been hearing a lot about A313 and would love to hear your thoughts. Love your channel and all of the helpful skincare advice! ๐Ÿค—

  • MaryEllen After 60 says:

    I am a huge fan of microneedling, and you Penn. Thank you so much for sharing your vast knowledge with us. I look forward to your videos, my beautiful friend. Blessings, and love..MaryEllen

  • Efi Katsani says:

    Great video Pen ! I learned a lot of things for microneedling from your video .. great job ! What about the eyes area ? do we leave it out ?

  • Cindy Briggs says:

    I wanna get q dr pen which one do u suggest I have had it done in the office many times I got laser resurfacing last week wow im still healing i just wanted to ask before I bought one my daughter used to work at a spa and was the head ma and always assisted the nurse practitioner so i will be lazy and let her do it to me just wanted to know which pen i should get

  • Cindy Briggs says:

    Also in the office she did 2 passes should after im healed and wait 6 weeks after my laser resurfacing do i do 2 passes or 1 she always did 2 passes and had it on the highest level

  • elena Cassandracastorpollux says:

    It s S true super beautifull Penny! I have that book and indeed it is exceedingly good. Invaluable resource. We love you dr Setterfield!๐Ÿ˜Š

  • misottovoce says:

    What a knowledgeable young woman. For me, you are the Dr. Sten Ekberg (here on youtube) on the subject of skin. Thank you for sharing your knowledge, tips and experience so freely!

  • Carol Smith says:

    Hi Penn. is this book easy to understand without a lot of medical terms, etc. Thank you for another awesome video. Your great!!!

  • Gina Friend says:

    Hi Penny ๐Ÿ™‚ Good tutorial and his book does sound invaluable. I wanted to let you know that I had seen a video you did mentioning benefit Puff Off. I bought it and it does work. Took my puffiness right down, below my eyes. So a special Thank You comes your way! โค
    I need to pull out my new Dr Pen 6 and do my Nanoneedling one of these days soon.
    Enjoy your weekend dear, love and hugs pretty blues! ๐Ÿ’‹

  • Charlie Rose says:

    Whatโ€™s your favorite spf for neck and chest?

  • Karen Hinkle says:

    Hi Penn, ANOTHER GREAT video……so so informative as usual! I got the book several months ago but havenโ€™t really gotten into it yet but plan to! Thank you so much for all your knowledge, I really appreciate it! Hugs๐Ÿ’œ๐Ÿ’œ

  • Karen Hinkle says:

    Also I forgot to say that your skin is so so beautiful ( as you are) it looks so tight I donโ€™t think you will EVER have a sag! ๐Ÿคช๐Ÿคช ๐Ÿ’œ

  • Luisa D. says:

    Concerning laser.. Do I use it before or after microneedling

  • Sarah Finney says:

    Thank you so much for the info! Question–How many times should you use a cartridge before
    the needles become less sharp? Thanks!

  • Lindy Lou says:

    Penn! I noticed youโ€™re recording with a different camera???? And You have a microphone which picks up your voice beautifully! Can you share what those 2 devices are? Thank you! Your videos are amazingly informative and educational. I ALWAYS learn something from you. You are my GO TO for all things skincare related! THANK YOU SO MUCH!!!

  • Hina khan says:

    beautiful lady ๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜๐Ÿ˜

  • Deedee Smith says:

    Love these videos!๐Ÿฅฐ thank you for answering so many questions and teaching us.

  • Pink Star says:

    Awesomeness thank you as always-

  • Debra Raiche says:

    I maybe wrong on this one~ However just wanted clarification ~In one of your videos you spoke of needling (Nano or Cosmetic) in
    Costa BaHa Peptide Complex Eseence Toner w Matrixyl 3000 & Argireline – Growth Collagen For Face + Heals and Repairs Skin + Instantly Ageless for Face + Skin Tightening Serum For Facial…. if this is correct ~this is a toner does that make a difference in whether you needle this product in??? Thanks so much for All you do for us !!!

  • Julia G. says:

    Hey Penny, I have a question about layering skincare. I know the general rule of thumb is thinnest to thickest but I'm wondering if some layer's might "dilute" the effectiveness of others.. Like if I put a thicker moisturizing essence immediately on top of a more watery serum with actives for instance. Also should SPF always be last? I'm forever confused about where to put some "priming" products in relation to SPF and if layering things on top will diminish the efficacy of the sunscreen. Have a great week! ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Mariana Gobbo says:

    Hi Penny,
    What do you think about the Granactive Retinoid 5% and Lactic Acid 5% + HA 2% from The Ordinary brand? Iโ€™m trying to find some budged friendly options out there and those are pretty attractive to me. I found those in Ulta.
    Thanks ๐Ÿ™‚

  • Jenny Meade says:

    Great! Thank you Penny I am going to be using my pen for the first time at the end of this month, so I appreciate the info. Honey, this might be a odd compliment, but you're cheekbone area is beautiful. I typically don't even notice that, but on you I do everytime you talk for some reason. You are very pretty anyway and have a very pretty face, but wow those cheaks and cheakbone area is just stunning. I bet people tell you this all of the time already. You also have a perfectly symmetrical face, you should be a model. LOL thanks

  • Haya Herzallah says:

    Hi …I love your you tube ..and I want you please to show us the peeling proceture. Thank you so much

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